Category: Lawn Maintenance

Maintaining New Lawns

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Last month we reviewed the process for a sustainable lawn renovation.  This month we provide tips to give your new yard its best chance of thriving. The University of Maryland Extension provides excellent guidance.

Watering

  • Once seed germination has begun do not let the seed dry out
  • A newly seeded lawn requires daily watering during dry periods. 
  • If there’s a stretch of windy and dry days, your grass may require several light waterings a day.
  • Sandy soils dry out quickly, require more watering, and using a light mist is best.
  • Mature grass seedlings require less frequent watering, but they should be watered longer when you do.
  • It’s best to water earlier in the day so the grass does not remain wet overnight.

Mowing

  • Mowing lawns too short or infrequently causes grass to become susceptible to drought injury, weed infestations (especially crabgrass), and foot traffic injury.
  • Mow new turf when it reaches a height one-third higher than your normal mowing height. Usually this is four to six weeks after seeding.
  • Remove only one-third of the grass’s height in each following mowing. Removing too much of the leaf blade at each cutting stresses the new lawn.
  • Soil should be dry enough so that ruts are not formed by the wheels of the lawnmower.
  • Mowing typically needs to be done on a weekly basis during the growing season.

Fertilizing

  • Follow-up applications of fertilizer are made as part of a regular maintenance program.  
  • Organic Lawns by LUNSETH’s organic fertilizer solution provides a proven alternative to chemically-based lawn care — delivering a number of benefits that aren’t possible when treating your lawn synthetically. Being 100% organic means our fertilizers contain a purely balanced food source and do not feature synthetic chemicals that can be detrimental to your health and harsh on your lawn. By hiring us to apply our 100% OMRI-certified organic fertilizer to your lawn, your grass won’t just look great, it’ll be healthy in a way that’s very environmentally advantageous.

Weeds

  • Weeds have been resting all winter and can’t wait to shoot through and start growing.  Thin or bare soil areas combined with sunlight and warm soil temperatures create a perfect opportunity for germination of many of our annual weeds. 
  • These weed seeds aren’t just perennials that lay dormant over the winter. They can be blown in by the wind or be carried in by our bird friends. Early spring is the time to start looking for these intruders and taking steps to reduce their spread. 
  • Read LUNSETH’s Blog Post, “Handle Spring Weeds Now or Pay the Price Later”, to learn about some of the most common weeds we see in Minnesota, along with our tips for getting them under control.

Traffic

  • Young seedlings are easily injured. Newly seeded areas should be restricted from foot traffic for a least a month after the seed has germinated or until the new lawn has been mowed at least a couple of times. 

If you’re interested in having a lush, organic lawn, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to create the best program for your yard.

Identifying and Controlling Grub Damage

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Grubs have become a real nuisance the past few years. LUNSETH addresses this issue in a number of communities throughout the Twin Cities. How do you know if you’ve got grubs or not?  Our friends at the University of Minnesota Extension Service have excellent information and suggestions for handling grubs..

Identifying Grub Damage

There are several indications that white grubs are damaging your lawn. These include:

  • Irregular patches of dead or dying grass that resemble drought stress.

  • Early signs of a white grub infestation are apparent when an irrigation system has been running or we have had regular rainfall and the drought symptoms are still present.

  • Moderate grub damage involves observing dead or dying turf with little to no roots when pulling on the turf.

  • More severe white grub damage is sometimes not caused by the grubs themselves, but by animals like racoons and skunks turning over the turf to feed on the grubs.

Controlling Grubs

What can you do about grubs? The good news is there are very effective organic solutions to get them under control. The Turfgrass newsletter references a biological insecticide, GrubGone (Baccilus thuringiensis galleriae), as the only known biological insecticide to work effectively. It works as a preventative treatment and needs to be applied in advance of a white grub infestation. 

Contact LUNSETH for a quote on our grub control services. We’ve helped people all around the Twin Cities get their grub damage under control.

Preparing Your Lawn for Spring Topic #1: Snow Mold

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

It seems odd to think about taking care of your yard during February in Minnesota. But now is a great time to start planning your lawn care for the upcoming spring, especially if you’re focused on organic lawn care. 

For the next few months, LUNSETH will provide details (with information from the University of Minnesota Extension Service) about common challenges for Minnesota yards, and the recommended organic solutions to deal with them.

What is Snow Mold

When the snowmelt is on and we start to see our lawns appear in Minnesota, most yards have some, or a lot, of snow mold. It’s typically circular patches of matted, greyish grass up to 3 feet in diameter. 

U of M Extension describes snow mold as “…a fungal disease that can be caused by 3 different pathogens (Typhula spp. and Microdochium nivale). All Minnesota lawn grasses can be affected, although fine fescue grasses are less susceptible. Snow mold disease damages grass leaves but usually will not kill the entire plant.” 

Repairing Grass with Snow Mold

Snow mold might look bad, but it shouldn’t permanently damage the lawn. To promote recovery, lightly rake these areas to loosen the matted leaves. Make sure to lift the matted grass completely to let air circulate in that part of the lawn. No chemicals – just a little effort. It doesn’t get any more organic than that.

Timing is important, too. You need to stay off of the lawn until it has a chance to dry out.  Foot traffic on wet, damaged grass can cause even more damage. And, you especially DO NOT want to rake up the snow mold when it’s wet because you’ll end up pulling out your grass plants. Then you’ll have to seed the lawn if you want grass to return.  

Preventing Snow Mold Next year

There are a couple of simple steps to take at the end of the growing season to try and prevent snow mold next spring. First, continue to mow your turf well into the fall.  Second, when snow does come, avoid creating large, long-lasting snowbanks on your grass when shoveling snow from your sidewalks and driveways.

Conclusion

February might feel like the dead of winter in Minnesota, but it’s the perfect time to start planning for a healthy, organic lawn this spring. By planning and scheduling your organic lawn care treatments today, you’ll be ahead of the game when the warm weather finally arrives.

Remember, organic lawn care is all about nurturing the health of your lawn and the environment. By taking small steps now, you’re not only preparing your lawn for a successful year but also creating a sustainable, eco-friendly outdoor space for your family to enjoy. Let’s make this year’s lawn care routine as green and healthy as possible!

If you need help preparing an organic lawn care plan for your yard, reach out to Organic Lawns by LUNSETH today! 

Aerate & Overseed Now!

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Aerating and overseeding your lawn now is an important way to give your grass a jumpstart on next year’s growing season.


Aeration

All yards become compacted, and a yard that’s used a lot gets compacted a lot more! That’s one of the reasons why aeration is one of the most important services you can do for your lawn. The University of Minnesota Extension Service says that between late August and early October is the best time to aerate – so now is the time! Fall is an ideal time to aerate because the grass is still actively growing, but there’s less danger of spreading seeds from weeds during the process. 

There are several benefits of aeration. It improves the lawn’s health and relieves soil compaction, resulting in better water drainage and nutrient absorption by the roots.  Strong roots are essential for healthy grass. Also, plugs of soil from the ground are created during aeration. This allows air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil and reach the lawn’s root system.

Compacted soils and soils with poor drainage accumulate thatch faster than well-drained soils. Aerification stimulates the microbial activity involved in decomposing the thatch layer. Aeration plugs sit on the surface of the lawn and crumble apart over time. This top-dresses the grass with soil containing desired microorganisms that will work at decomposing thatch.


Overseeding

Fall is on the best time to overseed. Establishing grass now means it has less competition with weeds, and the cooler nights and sunny days allow for the successful germination of our cool-season grasses. In addition, immature grass does better over the winter than it does dealing with the stresses of summer. So getting it started in the fall optimizes its ability to establish in the spring.

Overseeding after aeration is great timing.  The holes created by the aeration process become great places to catch and protect the seed. And, the lawn is less compacted after aeration, giving the grass a better chance of rooting into the soil.

If you have a question about aeration and overseeding, or would like a quote for having your yard aerated, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH.

Identifying and Controlling Grub Damage

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Chances are you’ve got some – or a lot of – grub damage this year. We’ve addressed this issue in a number of communities throughout the Twin Cities the past few years. How do you know if you’ve got grubs or not?  Our friends at the University of Minnesota’s Turfgrass Science Department have excellent guidelines in their recent newsletter.

Identifying Grub Damage

There are several indications that white grubs are damaging your lawn. These include:

  • Irregular patches of dead or dying grass that resemble drought stress.
  • Early signs of a white grub infestation are apparent when an irrigation system has been running or we have had regular rainfall and the drought symptoms are still present.
  • Moderate grub damage involves observing dead or dying turf with little to no roots when pulling on the turf.
  • More severe white grub damage is sometimes not caused by the grubs themselves, but by animals like racoons and skunks turning over the turf to feed on the grubs.

Controlling Grubs

What can you do about grubs? The good news is there are very effective organic solutions to get them under control. The Turfgrass newsletter references a biological insecticide, GrubGone (Baccilus thuringiensis galleriae), as the only known biological insecticide to work effectively. It works as a preventative treatment and needs to be applied in advance of a white grub infestation. 

You can find additional information about controlling grubs from our friends at #universityofminnesotaextension  Or, contact LUNSETH for a quote on our grub control services. We’ve helped people all around the Twin Cities get their grub damage under control.

Handle Spring Weeds Now or Pay the Price Later

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Weeds have been resting all winter and can’t wait to shoot through and start growing.  You probably already know that when they do, they start growing – well – like weeds!  This often happens so fast that by the time you try to get rid of them, they’ve already taken over.  Thin or bare soil areas combined with sunlight and warm soil temperatures create a perfect opportunity for germination of many of our annual weeds. 

These weed seeds aren’t just perennials that lay dormant over the winter. They can be blown in by the wind or be carried in by our bird friends. Early spring is the time to start looking for these intruders and taking steps to reduce their spread.  Below are some of the most common weeds we see in Minnesota. Along with our tips for getting them under control.

Crabgrass

Crabgrass is a summer annual that germinates inthe early spring and dies in the fall. The seeds germinate when soil

 temperatures reach about 55°F. Crabgrass can often be found along sidewalks and driveways because the proximity to asphalt and concrete allows the soil to heat up much faster. Areas of the lawn that are south-facing and have full exposure to the sun may also see more crabgrass than other areas. It is a warm-season species that easily out-competes the cool-season grasses during the high-temperature stress periods of midsummer. It is easily recognized by its distinctive seedhead, which looks like protruding fingers, thus its Latin name Digitaria (digits, or fingers). The seedhead branches from multiple locations on the seed stalk. This grass has a rolled vernation, and smooth crabgrass can be purple near the base. 

Crabgrass is generally controlled with preemergence herbicides that are applied before the seeds germinate. Organically, you can control crabgrass with an early and heavy application of corn gluten meal, aiming to get it down before the soil temperatures reach 55°F (3-years to achieve the best suppression).  There is no organic post-emergent control for crabgrass, but synthetic herbicides containing Quinclorac can kill it.


Prostrate Knotweed  

Prostrate knotweed looks a little like prostrate spurge, but it is easy to distinguish the two. The knotweed has symmetrical leaves that are arranged in an alternating pattern along the length of its runner. It also lacks the milky sap that is typical of the spurge. The knotweed germinates very early in the spring and can sometimes be found peeking through as the snow melts. It was identified at its earliest this year at the Turfgrass Research Center, in February! It looks a little like grass when it first emerges, and is sometimes mistaken for emerging crabgrass. The knotweed will usually show up six to eight weeks or even more, before crabgrass.

Prostrate knotweed can be controlled with pre-emergent weed control, but if it is applied early enough to control this species, it will lose its effectiveness before the later germinating species, such as goosegrass. Multiple applications of a synthetic post-emergent herbicide can have little effect. Knotweed is a sign of soil compaction, and it is usually found in compacted areas along sidewalks or in other heavily trafficked areas. Relieving the compaction through aeration and following other sound management techniques to produce a healthy lawn are generally the best way to handle knotweed.


Oxalis

Yellow woodsorrel (better known as oxalis and shamrock), is an annual or a weak perennial in northern regions of the United States. It is easily recognized by its three-part leaf with distinct heart-shaped leaflets and its yellow flowers with five petals. It germinates in midsummer and often becomes a problem in August.

This species can be controlled with pre-emergent herbicides, but its late germination makes it difficult to control in this manner. Selective post-emergent herbicides can control it, but these applications need to be applied carefully to prevent damage to desirable plants during the warmer part of the summer. Three to four applications of chelated iron would be needed to control it. This weed is easy to hand pull, as it does not resprout from roots left behind. Proper irrigation, fertilization, and other sound management steps that keep the lawn healthy provide the best means of preventing this weed from becoming a problem.


Black Medic

Black medic is considered an annual clover, even though it is not part of the clover

genus. It has teardrop-shaped leaves clustered in groups of three, similar to clover. The flowers are small, round, and yellow. Black medic is a species that is an indication that the lawn grasses are not as competitive as they could be with proper management. It often shows up on hillsides, where water does not readily penetrate the soil, or in compacted areas.

The adoption of sound lawn management techniques, along with pre-emergent or post-emergent weed control, will provide satisfactory control of this species. Hand weeding this weed is not difficult, since it grows from a central location. One application of chelated iron will kill this weed.


Prostrate Spurge

Prostrate spurge, as its name would indicate, grows in a prostrate manner along the surface of the ground. It has leaves that are paired opposite one another along the length of its runner. The individual leaves are asymmetrical, meaning that they are not the same on both sides of the midrib. Some varieties will have a purple/red spot on the middle of the leaf. If the stem is broken, a drop of milky sap will form at the end of the broken stem. This sap can irritate the skin, so wear gloves when hand pulling this weed. Spurge and knotweed can be mistaken for each other, but knotweed does not produce a milky sap when the stem is broken and its leaves grow in an alternating pattern. Spurge generally germinates later than goosegrass, which germinates later than crabgrass.

These three species are a difficult combination to control with pre-emergent herbicides. If the herbicide is targeting crabgrass germination, it will have lost its effectiveness before the spurge germinates. Spurge can be controlled with a number of post-emergent herbicides, such as 2,4-D and MCPP, but it is risky to use these chemicals in midseason because of damage to trees and shrubs. Spurge generally germinates into open areas in the lawn, and the best way to control it is with proper cultural techniques that prevent it from becoming established.

Winter Love for Untidy Lawns & Gardens

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

A yard without leaves and a garden without dead stalks sticking up all winter long brings a sense of satisfaction. But at Organic Bob we promote a love of untidy lawns and gardens. These organic materials serve to nurture the soil and also provide shelter for pollinators.

Our friends at the Pollinator Friendly Alliance explain that most pollinators stay over winter, looking for shelter in both plants and the ground. “During cold months, dead plant stems, old bark, cane, leaves, and undisturbed soil are the secret winter homes of pollinators. Leaving piles of leaves, compost or wood help all manner of creatures including salamanders, beneficial insects, and pollinators. Many solitary bees like mason bees burrow under tree bark or wood piles. Some have gorged like bears to make it through the winter; others wait in suspended animation as larvae, pupae, or eggs.

“Something you should be aware of as you begin to tidy up your garden for winter – especially burning or removing the plant stems, you may be destroying hibernating bees or bee nurseries. So, it’s important to leave plants standing until late spring when temperatures rise and nectar and pollen is available.”

If you have a question about keeping a pollinator friendly yard, contact the experts.

Snow-covered trees and shrubs.

How to Protect Plants in the Winter

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Freezing temperatures, heavy snowfall, and strong winds are a fact of life during the winter. But this drastic change in climate conditions can also spell trouble for outdoor plants.

Though you can transport many container plants indoors, landscaping plants like trees or shrubs aren’t meant to be household plants. Therefore, the question of how to protect your outdoor landscape comes into play.

How Does Winter Damage Outdoor Plants?

Some winters can be mild, but they often consist of ice, snow, and windchill, especially in the Midwest. Even the sunlight during the wintertime can cause severe damage to landscape plants, such as turning evergreens brown due to dehydration and killing branches and root systems.

Shrubs, on the other hand, can suffer from dieback, which kills shoots, branches, twigs, or root systems, starting from the tips of branches and spreading downwards. And let’s remember that shoveling piles of snow onto your grass, which likely contains traces of deicing salt, can be extremely harmful to your landscape area.

So, what are your options?

Protecting trees with thin bark or those recently planted is a good starting point, as these are the most vulnerable to damage during the winter.

Therefore, covering your trees with plastic tubes or tree wraps can help reflect sunlight and block winds. Furthermore, tree wraps can protect your trees from roaming wildlife, especially as food sources become scarce during the winter.  

Just remember to remove the wraps after the last frost of the year.

Should You Cover Plants in Winter?

Because we live in an area where temperatures drop below freezing, it’s essential to protect your plants from frost damage. Therefore, you may consider covering your plants, such as shrubs, using burlap to allow moisture to come in but also help keep the harsh winter elements out. 

What Do You Cover Plants With in Cold Weather?

In addition to burlap, there are several different materials you can use to cover outdoor plants during winter. You’ll need to choose one based on what type of plant you have and its sun and shade tolerance.

Popular covering materials include mulch, garden blankets, towels, sheets, cardboard boxes and other common household materials.

Mulching, for example, is one of the easiest ways to keep your plants safe during extreme weather. You can use straw, leaves, pine needles, hay, wood chips, or any other organic material that will help insulate your plants from the ground.

When Should You Cover Your Plants?

Covering plants is typically used to protect plants from frost. You can cover your plants before dusk to help trap warmer air inside and remove coverings during the daytime so the plants can get enough sunlight. 

Before covering your plants, remember to remove any snow accumulation from the day. You’ll want to do so carefully as not to damage any branches.

Protect Your Landscape This Winter

Every Minnesotan homeowner knows that lawns never take a holiday, not even during winter. So check out this helpful article for more tips on caring for your lawn this season.

And remember that winter is the perfect time to start planning your organic lawn goals for spring. To ensure you get in the books before the ground thaws, contact Organic Lawns by Lunseth today!

We’ll help you design and create an organic landscape you can be proud of in the New Year.

Frost on grass in front yard.

Treating Grass After a Frost

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

The first frost of the year has come and gone. Yet, temperatures continue to fluctuate as we head into the winter months. 

Depending on where you live in the Midwest, local temperatures can jump to 50°F (or above) in the daytime and fall below 32°F at night, causing frost to appear on your lawn during the fall season.

Like most homeowners, you’ve probably shelved your lawn equipment for the remainder of the year. But remember that frost on grass doesn’t mean your lawn has become dormant. 

In Minnesota, for example, grass will usually become dormant between late October and early December—once the soil drops below 50°F. So if your lawn still holds a green vibrancy and has not transitioned to a brown color—this is a good indication that it’s alive and growing. 

So what exactly is a frost? And how does it affect your lawn?

This article will address a few commonly asked questions about frost, so you know when and how to treat your lawn before winter.

What Causes Frost on Grass?

First, let’s cover what we mean by “frost.” Frost occurs when the water condensation on grass blades freezes overnight. For this to happen, temperatures need to dip below 32° F. If temperatures do not fall below freezing, dew will appear instead.

Light vs. Hard Frost: What’s the Difference?

A light frost occurs when the temperature at night falls to 32°F or below. During a hard freeze, the air temperature falls below 28°F for at least 4 consecutive hours.

A light frost is considered less severe than a hard frost since it won’t cause the soil to freeze, which can damage your grass’ root system. However, a hard frost makes it difficult for the roots to irrigate water and circulate its nutrients, eventually forcing grass to become dormant.

Does Grass Stop Growing after the First Frost?

Not quite. Frost is a good indicator that your lawn will eventually stop growing over the next few weeks. Once frost occurs regularly, the growing process begins to slow down and your grass prepares itself for survival during the cold winter months. 

Eventually, germination will stop entirely after the grass can no longer receive nutrients.

Can You Mow Grass after the First Frost?

Cool-season grasses can keep growing depending on your soil’s temperature. As a result, your grass may still need mowing. Remember that before you mow, you must thoroughly ensure the grass is thawed and dried. You never want to cut a lawn covered in frost. 

Ideally, if you decide to mow your lawn, you’ll want the temperature above 40°F. Be sure to also check future weather forecasts to ensure you have a few days before the next frost occurs as frost can damage your newly cut grass. 

Finally, avoid walking on your lawn after a frost, as this can also damage its blades.

Will Frost Kill Grass Seed?

Although new grass seeds can endure frost and will begin to germinate during the next growing season, it needs about 6-weeks to establish to overwinter successfully. 

Dormant seeding is a planting method that ensures the seed remains “dormant” due to the cold soil conditions. To get started, you’ll want to put down your seed while the ground is cold but not frozen. This ensures that germination of the grass seed will not occur until the following spring. In addition, sowing grass species that germinate more quickly and like cooler temperatures for germination is a good strategy for dormant seeding, in which fine fescues are a good option.

To learn more about dormant seeding and best practices, read this article from the University of Minnesota Extension. 

Is Your Lawn Ready for Winter?

Stay connected to our blog for more tips on caring for a lawn during the winter—and every season. And if you’re looking to get into the books for spring lawn care and landscaping in 2023, connect with our team today! 

We look forward to helping you plan and achieve your organic lawn care goals in the New Year!

Man using shovel to dig hole before planting a tree.

How & When to Plant Trees in Minnesota

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

With the dry heat and high temperatures of summer behind us, now is a great time to plant trees in your yard. 

Why is fall the best time to plant trees, you ask? 

During the fall months, trees can focus on putting down their roots vs. growing branches and leaves, as they would if planted during the springtime. Still, depending on the type of trees you want to add to your landscape, you may need to get a move on if you’re hoping to plant this season. 

For example, evergreens need to establish their roots before the ground freezes as they are more sensitive to drying winter winds; however, you can plant deciduous trees like oaks and maples well into October.

Best Tree to Plant in Minnesota

Now onto the next question: which trees thrive in Minnesota? To answer this, you first need to understand our state’s plant hardiness zones, as this information will help you determine which plants will survive and thrive in your area.

Depending on where you live, Minnesota’s hardiness zones range between 3 to 4, as our state’s lowest temperatures fall between -20° F and -30° F. Therefore, you’ll want to select trees that can survive the winters yet still grow and produce foliage. 

A few tree options you may consider:

  • Oak Trees
  • Maple Trees
  • Crabapple Trees
  • Fir Trees

Before you choose a tree, however, there are a few other considerations you’ll need to make, including the size and shape of the tree, its preferred location, and its purpose (i.e., add privacy, create property lines, offer shade, etc.)

To help you decide, the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources provides a helpful guide on choosing the right trees and shrubs for your home. 

Lastly, be sure where you want to plant your tree is free of underground utilities. You can do this by visiting Gopher One and submitting a ticket to ensure you have the green light!

Don’t forget your soil!

As you begin to break ground, you’ll need to determine whether your soil is clay or sandy if you don’t already know. A simple way to do this is by grabbing a handful. Clay soil sticks together like a ball while sandy soil falls apart. 

Testing your soil for nutrient deficiencies is also necessary for healthy plant growth. Understanding your soil’s nutrient levels, textures, and structure can ensure your plants thrive!

Okay, ready for the fun part?

How to Plant Lawn Trees

As you can already tell, there’s a lot of prep work and planning before you can fill your lawn with trees. But once you choose the location and type of tree that best serves your landscaping goals, it’s time to dig! 

Here’s a quick guide to help you get started.

Dig the hole

First, measure the width and height of the tree bulb (also called a root ball). Next, dig a hole at least 1.5x wider than the width of the bulb to give yourself room to work. Be sure the hole is deep enough so only a small portion of the root ball is exposed above grade. The root ball should be 1”-2” inches above grade in sandy soil and about 3”-4” above grade in clay soil.

Remove the container

If you’re planting a potted tree, you can remove the container before it goes into the hole. However, if you are planting a tree that arrived in a burlap sack, cut off part of the material, so it still holds the bulb together.

Put tree in hole

For trees in burlap sacks, lower the tree to one side, cut the rest of the container, and slowly roll it into the hole while unraveling the material. Next, slowly stand the tree upwards.

Straighten tree

Make sure your tree is completely straight before you begin filling in the hole. 

Fill the hole

Using fresh soil, begin filling the hole around the tree.

Install posts

Next, you’ll want to install 2 metal posts on each side of the tree and attach guy wires. This will help keep it straight during strong winds. Smaller trees can use stakes vs. posts. 

Use tree straps and wires

Secure a tree strap above the first row of branches of your tree. Next, use tree wire to connect the straps to the posts. Again, this will keep it in place.

Install fencing

If you share your property with woodland creatures (e.g., deer, woodchucks, etc.,) consider installing a fence around the posts to keep them away from the tree’s trunk and branches.

Water your tree

Trees need lots of water, so after planting your tree, water it every day for the first 1-2 weeks. When you reach the 3-6 weeks period, you can water 2x a week. Afterward, once a week should suffice. As with any plant in your landscape, be careful not to overwater your trees.  

Add mulch 

Mulch helps water stay around the tree, so it can quickly soak it up and keep moisture in that area. Use the mulch to create a dish shape around the tree. No mulch volcanoes!

Want More Lawn Care Tips?

Stay connected to our blog for more helpful articles and lawn care tips. At Organic Lawns by LUNSETH, we offer professional and experienced lawn care services to solve even the most challenging lawn issues.

Contact us with questions or to learn more about our organic treatment programs.