Category: Organic Lawn Care

Pre-Emergent Weed Control

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The Importance of Using Organic Weed Control in the Spring

The University of Minnesota Extension Service stresses the importance of getting Minnesota lawn weeds under control in the spring. There are 2 organic methods that are most effective accomplishing this: corn gluten and cultural practices.

Corn Gluten: Organic Pre-Emergent Herbicide 

Corn gluten is a byproduct of the wet-milling process of corn and is an effective pre-emergent weed control that can prevent many annual weeds, like crabgrass, over time. The protein in the corn gluten acts on germinating seeds to inhibit root growth. Organic Lawns by LUNSETH uses non-GMO, organic corn gluten meal (CGM).

Timing and application rates greatly affect the success of corn gluten meal.  The best time to apply it is in the early spring.  Heavy rates are necessary for weed prevention. U of M Extension says that for control of annual summer grasses such as crabgrass, either apply it in early May, or once the temperature in the top inch of soil, measured early in the day, is consistently in the 50 to 55 °F range .

An added benefit to corn gluten is it also contains 10% nitrogen by weight and has a slow-release fertilizing effect when applied to home lawns.

Cultural Practices

Cultural practices offer a completely organic solution to weed control.  It’s hard because you do all the work, but it’s very effective because it generates habits and processes that consistently favors the grass plants rather than the weeds.

The U of M Extension offers these cultural control solutions:

  • Raising or lowering mowing height.
  • Changing how often you mow.
  • Lengthening or shortening time between watering.
  • Increasing or decreasing how much and how often you apply fertilizer.
  • Aerating the soil by allowing air, water and nutrients to reach the grass roots.
  • Hand-weeding or pulling weeds is also an effective way to get rid of weeds from small lawn areas.

The best time to pull weeds is after a good rain or thorough watering. Hand-weeding is low-cost but labor-intensive. Several tools on the market will help when you’re hand-pulling weeds.

A combination of proper cultural practices and use of corn gluten as a pre-emergent herbicide is a good approach to controlling lawn weeds organically and effectively. If you have a question using corn gluten on your yard or would like help getting your yard ready for spring and summer, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH.

Minnesota’s Shifting Climate Zones

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The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map shows the Twin Cities moved from Zone 4b to Zone 5a. This is similar to places like Mankato and most of southern Minnesota. There are several reasons for the change:

  • Winters are warming at night
  • There are more heavy rains
  • The area is generally wetter and warmer  
  • The new Zone requires a more diverse palette of trees

Things to consider with the new Zone designation:

  • Purchase trees typically found in high zones to best serve a similar climate. The Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences explains that this is a climate-smart forestry strategy known as assisted migration or climate-adjusted seed sourcing. It involves sourcing trees, seeds, or saplings from slightly higher elevations (or higher latitudes) and planting them in lower-elevation areas that have a similar climate, in anticipation of that lower area becoming warmer and drier over time. 
  • Don’t plant White birches on south-facing slopes, as they are susceptible to the bronze birch borer
  • Trees require shade in their root zone, so plant with other trees

Daniel Gjertson is the Arboriculture Program Coordinator and Educator for the University of Minnesota Urban Forestry Outreach & Research (UFOR) Lab.  He recently gave a talk at the 2026 Northern Green Expo, covering the topic about species to consider for Zones 4 and 5 if you’re planting trees. He said species to consider for Zones 4 and 5 include:

  • Baldcypress
  • Black tupelo – slow growing, drought-resistant
  • Cucumbertree magnolia – more sensitive
  • Hardy pecan
  • Hoptree – large shrub
  • Pawpaw – need multiple for cross pollination, cool fruit
  • Pitch pine – drought tolerant, acidic soil
  • Shagbark hickory – zone 4
  • Shingle oak – urban tolerant
  • Tuliptree – weak wooded, so don’t put close to a house
  • Yellowwood – legume

Zone 4 and 5 shrubs to consider:

  • Kalm St. Johnswort – pollinator plant
  • American bladdernut
  • Silverbell species
  • Sweetshrub – smells good
  • White fringe tree – dioecious (needs male nearby) and fragrant
  • Lead plant – prairie plant, drought-tolerant, pollinators, trouble with rabbits
  • New Jersey Tea – prairie plant, drought-tolerant, pollinators, trouble with rabbits
  • Sweet fern- prairie plant, drought-tolerant, pollinators, trouble with rabbits\

Minnesota’s climate is changing which means you need to make sure you’re choosing your plantings wisely. If you’re looking to add trees and shrubs to your yard this spring, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to help guide you so you have a successful landscape this summer – and for years to come.

Why Dormant Seeding Is a Great Strategy for Minnesota Lawns

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When it comes to building a thick, healthy lawn in Minnesota, dormant seeding (also called “frost seeding”) offers some compelling advantages. Based on research and recommendations from the UMN Extension, it’s a low-risk, smart way to improve turf density — especially in our cold-climate conditions.

Here’s why dormant seeding is worth considering, particularly for Minnesota homeowners:

Key Advantages of Dormant Seeding

1. Minimal Site Preparation

One of the biggest perks of dormant seeding is that it requires very little soil disruption. According to UMN Extension, often no soil tilling or heavy prep is needed — you can simply broadcast seed directly over thin turf. This simplicity makes dormant seeding less labor-intensive than a full spring or fall renovation.

  • For minor overseeding, you don’t even need to rake: seed does not have to be raked in.

2. Improved Seed-to-Soil Contact Through Freeze-Thaw Cycles

Minnesota’s winter weather actually helps dormant seeding succeed. The natural freeze–thaw cycles push the seed into the soil, promoting strong seed-to-soil contact — which is crucial for good germination once spring arrives.

  • Better contact means that more of your seed will survive and produce healthy seedlings.

3. Flexible Timing for Seeding

Dormant seeding offers a wider window than traditional spring or fall seeding:

  • In Minnesota, the ideal dormant-seeding period is when soil temperatures are below 40°F, which usually happens from early November to mid-March.
  • This longer window means you can plan seeding when it’s most convenient and safe, rather than being squeezed into a narrow spring or fall timeframe.

4. Reduced Watering Needs

Because dormant seeding takes place over winter, seedlings benefit from snowmelt and natural precipitation in early spring. UMN Extension notes that this reduces the need for intensive watering immediately after seeding.

  • When the seedlings emerge, you may need to water if conditions are dry, but the reliance on supplemental irrigation early on is generally lower than for spring-seeded lawns.

5. Early Spring Growth Before Weeds

One of the biggest competitive advantages of dormant seeding: by the time common spring weeds (like crabgrass) start to germinate, your new grass has a head start.

  • The dormant seed germinates as soon as soil warms, so seedlings can establish before weeds become a serious problem.
  • This early emergence helps foster denser, more competitive turf.

Trade-Offs & Things to Watch Out For

Dormant seeding is powerful, but it’s not without its trade-offs:

  • Risk of Dry Spring: If the spring after seeding is unusually warm and dry, seedlings might struggle if they don’t receive enough moisture.
  • Potential Seed Loss: While not always observed, there is a risk of seed predation (e.g., by birds) in bare or thin spots. UMN Extension suggests late-winter seeding to reduce this risk, or using a germination blanket on more exposed areas.
  • Slope Erosion: On steep or exposed slopes, you may need extra measures — like erosion blankets — to keep seed from washing away.

Best Practices for Dormant Seeding in Minnesota

Here are some UMN Extension–recommended tips to maximize the success of dormant seeding:

  1. Choose the Right Seed Mix
    1. Use cool-season grasses well suited to Minnesota: Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues, or tall fescue.
    1. Buy 10–20% more seed than you think you’ll need because you may need to overseed thin areas in the spring.
  2. Prep Smartly
    1. Clear excessive leaf litter so seeds can reach the soil
    1. For minimal disturbance, skip tilling; but for bare soil or slopes, consider a germination or erosion-control blanket.
  3. Seed Correctly
    1. Spread seed in dry conditions, using a drop spreader for large areas.
    1. Apply half the seed rate, then spread again in the opposite direction for better coverage.
    1. Do not rake after spreading; the freeze-thaw cycle will do the work of incorporating the seed.
  4. Manage in Spring
    1. As temperatures rise above ~40°F, seedlings may begin to germinate. Monitor and water if needed.
    1. Once most seedlings are about 3 inches tall, mow for the first time.

Conclusion

In summary, dormant seeding is a highly effective, low-maintenance strategy for Minnesota lawns. By leveraging natural winter processes, it helps you establish or renovate turf with minimal preparation, less watering pressure, and an earlier start than traditional seeding. While it’s not without risks — spring weather fluctuations and
moisture — the benefits often outweigh the drawbacks when done thoughtfully.

If you’re looking to thicken your lawn, renovate thin or bare spots, or reduce spring seeding stress, dormant seeding is definitely worth a try. Let our team help so you have a healthy green lawn in the spring. Contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to take the first step toward a greener, healthier, chemical-free lawn in 2026.

Preparing for Winter: Mowing, Raking or Mulching, Dormant Pruning

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Autumn is here and the trees are shedding their leaves. Your yard is entering a critical period that can affect next spring’s growth. Fall yard maintenance isn’t just about keeping things tidy—it’s about giving your lawn and landscape the care they need to rest and regenerate. From deciding whether to rake or mulch those fallen leaves, to giving your grass one last proper mowing, to knowing when to do some dormant pruning, now’s the moment to develop a plan so your outdoor spaces have a healthy, beautiful comeback when warmer days return. Here are some helpful tips from the University of Minnesota Extension Service.

Rake or Mulch

Mulching leaves into your lawn isn’t just sustainable – it’s an effective practice for healthier turfgrass. Mulch regularly when leaves are dry, and double pass for a finer mulch. This enables them to break down quickly and integrate into the lawn and saves you the labor of picking them up.

While mulched leaves do not return as much nitrogen as grass clippings, this still reduces the need for supplemental fertilizer and is a more eco-friendly and cost-effective practice.

In addition to releasing nutrients, decomposing leaves improve soil structure. The improved soil structure leads to better water infiltration, moisture retention, and root growth. It also improves access to nutrients, water, and air.

Leaf mulching is also very effective as a weed preventative as it covers bare spots and inhibits weed seed germination.

But, there’s a point when excessive leaves left on the surface can damage the lawn in the spring. For example, excessive tree leaf residue can promote snow mold damage.

The extension service recommends mulching tree leaves until you can only see about half of the lawn surface. When less than 50% of the lawn is visible, begin bagging the tree leaves to compost them off-site.

Mowing Grass

Should you mow your lawn shorter going into the winter? Extension says it depends. Some of the benefits of mowing your lawn a little shorter:

  • Makes collecting tree leaf litter easier.
  • Reduces the risk of snow mold diseases.
  • Reduces damage from burrowing rodents like voles.
  • Helps with dormant seeding. 

But they caution not to lower the mowing height too much all at once, and not any lower than 2 inches after mowing. In general, never cut more than one-third of grass height in a single cutting – this might stress the grass plants going into winter.

Wait to Prune!

Fall is not the time to start pruning back your trees and bushes. The best time to prune is in the late winter, just before spring growth starts. This way the fresh wounds are exposed for only a short length of time. Then the new growth begins the wound sealing process.

Pruning at the proper time can avoid certain disease and physiological problems:

Need Help Preparing for Winter?

Let our team help you get your yard ready for the winter, so you have a healthy green lawn in the spring. Contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to take the first step toward a greener, healthier, chemical-free lawn in 2026.

Why Choosing the Right Grass Seed Matters – Especially in Minnesota

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At Organic Lawns by LUNSETH we believe organic lawn care is about working with nature—not against it. And that starts with understanding the unique conditions of our state and selecting the right grass seed for the job. This month we review why the right seed matters, the best types of grass seed for Minnesota lawns, and red flags about generic seed mixes.

Minnesota’s Climate: A Lawn-Care Challenge and Opportunity

Minnesota lawns face a wide range of conditions throughout the year—icy winters, wet springs, humid summers, and dry spells in between. That means your grass seed needs to be hardy, adaptable, and suited for cool-season growth.

Unlike other parts of the country, Minnesota lawns do best with cool-season grasses—varieties that thrive in spring and fall, when temperatures are milder.

Why the Right Seed Matters in Organic Lawn Care

Organic lawn care relies on building long-term soil health and resilience. The wrong seed makes achieving those goals difficult by requiring more water, more fertilizers, or more pesticides—exactly what we’re trying to avoid.

Here’s why buying the right seed pays off:

  • Reduced Weed Pressure – High-quality, allelopathic, grass seed creates a thick, healthy lawn that naturally crowds out weeds..
  • Less Watering –  low-maintenance grass species require less irrigation.
  • Stronger Roots – The right grass seed means deeper roots, which equals better drought resistance and less stress.
  • Fewer Inputs – You won’t need to add synthetic fertilizers or harsh chemicals when your lawn is already thriving.

Top Grass Types for Minnesota Lawns

Our friends at the University of Minnesota Extension Service provide excellent guidance for choosing the right grass seed for your lawn.  Here are their recommendations.

Fine fescues

This species includes 5 fescues:

  • strong creeping red (most tolerant of tree shade)
  • slender creeping red
  • hard (the most drought-tolerant)
  • Chewings (most tolerant of tree shade)
  • Sheep (lowest maintenance)

Fine fescue is drought, shade, and salt-tolerant, but doesn’t do well in extreme heat. It has lower maintenance requirements, including less irrigation, mowing, and fertilizing. But, do not mow in the summer heat. Fertilize in the fall if needed.

A mix of strong creeping red, Chewings, and hard fescue is excellent for home lawns.

Tall fescue

Tall fescue is one of the most drought-tolerant turfgrasses for Minnesota due to deep, extensive roots. And it can be used in the shade. It also tolerates wear and traffic. Be patient, though, because it has a slow spring green-up.

Make sure to purchase turf-type tall fescues for lawns. Seeding in the spring helps the grass survive winter better in the first year. Do not plant in areas that hold ice in the winter.

Beware of Cheap or Generic Seed Mixes

Not all grass seed is created equal. Many big-box store brands contain:

  • Low germination rates
  • Invasive weed seeds
  • Species that don’t perform well in Minnesota’s climate

That’s why LUNSETH always recommend buying regionally appropriate, high-quality, and preferably certified organic grass seed from trusted suppliers. Our general rules include

  • When in doubt, buy the most expensive because it’s most likely to germinate
  • Don’t buy anything that includes unknown varieties
  • Try not to buy anything that says annual because it won’t overwinter
  • Look at the back of the seed bag and follow the below guidelines:

Purity > 85%
Germination > 85%
Weed seed < 0.3%
Other crop < 0.5%
Inert matter < 8%
Date tested = within the last 9-months

 

Need Help Choosing the Right Grass Seed?

Let our team take the guesswork out of grass seed selection. Whether you’re starting a new lawn or overseeding an old one, we help homeowners choose and sow seed blends that are tailored to their soil, sun conditions, and usage needs—without compromising your organic goals. Contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to take the first step toward a greener, healthier, chemical-free lawn

 

Hearty and Drought Tolerant Grasses

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The Twin Cities has had consistent rainfall during the summer of 2025, with many of the storms being torrential.  Research shows that this is part of a new weather pattern created by climate change, and now we’re approaching the time of year when we can go for long stretches without significant rain. But you have options to help maintain your lawn during these extreme conditions.

Weather Extremes – More Rain & More Drought

The University of Minnesota Climate Adaptation Partnership predicts that as climate change continues, “we expect more frequent and intense heavy rain events, with long dry periods in between.” They go on to say that “the length of consecutive dry days (CDD) is projected to increase more in the Midwest than in any region in the United States, up to 25% by 2100. This means that if we historically expected a dry period to last 8 days, we might expect it to last 10 days in the end of this century. We also expect a decrease in overall summer precipitation and a decrease in light rain events, but an increase in moderate and heavy rain events.

Turf Options

This is the time when our yards are getting a combination of the most intense sunlight and extreme heat of the season.  Many grasses will reach their wilting point and will go dormant under these conditions.  Luckily, grasses won’t start to die until they have 40 days of no moisture. But there are many varieties of grasses that can tolerate these environments better, leaving you with a green lawn even during drought.

The University of Minnesota Extension Service recommends tall fescue and fine fescue for Minnesota lawns.  They state that “these grasses can remain green for at least 28 days without water. Tall fescue is especially known for its heat and drought tolerance.

“Among the fine fescues, hard fescues have excellent drought tolerance. Chewings fescue and slender creeping red fescue have good to excellent drought tolerance. And strong creeping red fescues have good drought tolerance.”

Contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to learn how to convert your turf to a drought tolerant lawn. 

Managing Crabgrass and Other Weeds

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The Twin Cities’ excessive rainfall this year has been great for our lawns. Weeds already compete with your turfgrass during the hot months of the summer, and the spring rains gave them a jumpstart. This month we’ll help you identify the most common weeds you’re seeing and provide natural best practices to control them.

Crabgrass

The University of Minnesota Extension Service describes crabgrass as a prolific weed that survives harsh conditions through its abundant tillering (creation of shoots other than the main shoot) and seed production. One crabgrass plant can produce up to 150,000 seeds in a single season. Crabgrass seed germination occurs in the spring, when soil has an average temperature high enough to support growth. These seeds produce even more crabgrass plants over the summer.

There are steps you can take to control crabgrass:

  • The best way to control crabgrass is in the early spring, applying a pre-emergent herbicide – Corn Gluten –  before the soil temperatures reach approximately 55°F.
  • Keeping your mowing height to a minimum of 3 inches helps decrease crabgrass seed germination. 
  • One of the best strategies to combat crabgrass, and other weeds in general, is to maintain a healthy lawn.

Chickweed

Chickweed is challenging because of its ability to grow in a variety of conditions.  PennState Extension says it’s found in both high and low maintenance turf, in sunny and shaded areas, and in many different soil types. Common chickweed stems grow close to the ground then turn slightly upright, producing leaves and flowers. It’s generally classified as a winter annual. It produces shallow root systems and long, branching stems that grow prostrate along the soil surface. Seeds can germinate during spring, summer, and fall. Common chickweed produces one or two generations per year.

Common chickweed can be controlled with three to four applications of liquid iron each year. However, mouse-ear chickweed can tolerate iron applications due to the trichomes on the leaves. Improving turf density through non-chemical fertilization, regular mowing, and use of turfgrasses well-adapted to site conditions also helps. The University of California Department of Agriculture and Natural Resources provides these guidelines for natural control:

  • Nonchemical controls include hand weeding, cultivation, and adding mulch to garden beds.
  • Chickweed should be controlled before it flowers. This can be difficult due to the short period between germination and flower production. However, regular monitoring and removal of plants from the site will prevent seeds from developing and accumulating in the soil (seed bank).
  • It’s important not only to remove the plants from the ground but also to remove them from the site. Common chickweed can re-root from stem nodes in moist areas.

Chances are, you see other weeds in your lawn. Some of the most common are:

Dandelions
Dutch white clover
Ground ivy (creeping Charlie)
Quackgrass
Wild violet (common blue violet)

Following the management guidelines we provided can help manage weeds.   Contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to create the best organic weed control program for your yard.

How Organic Compost Tea Improves Soil Quality and the Health of your Lawn

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Organic compost tea is a water-based extract of compost that can be effectively used in organic turf management. It’s made of just two simple ingredients: compost and water. Good compost is successfully aerated, alllowing it to maintain oxygen levels necessary for aerobic functioning. It’s also necessary that the compost consists of the right balance of chemical compounds, is rich in nutrients, and contains beneficial microorganisms.

Why Have Your Lawn Treated with Compost Tea?

Organic compost tea has a number of positive effects on your lawn, including:

  • Adds nutrients to your lawn.

Compost tea contains a number of important macronutrients that are beneficial to your lawn—including magnesium and potassium, while also containing helpful micronutrients, such as iron and zinc. Applying such nutrients can boost overall soil quality.

  • Reaches important areas of your lawn.

Compost tea reaches deep into the soil, it also comes into contact with leaves, and it’s absorbed through foliar feeding.

  • Helps to control weeds.

Adding compost tea improves soil quality, which in effect discourages weed growth (notably, some weeds thrive in lawns that don’t contain a sufficient amount of nutrients).

  • Helps with repelling insects.

Compost tea can contain microbes effective against chitin, a biopolymer that forms the exoskeletons of insects; it can also improve overall plant quality in a way that makes plants less susceptible to harmful insects in the first place.

  • Helps with plant disease control:

According to the Northwest Center for Alternatives to Pesticides, compost tea has shown some promise in controlling diseases in plants when applied as root drench—helping against some soil-borne diseases.

Applying Organic Compost Tea To Your Lawn

During the application process, LUNSETH blanket applies the aerated compost tea to your entire lawn. The lawn will green up quickly, so results are seen right away. This is a great way to give your lawn a mid-season boost.

Adding compost tea to your organic lawn care plan can be an effective means of increasing microorganisms, improving your soil quality and the overall health of your lawn. By applying compost tea you can trust that you’re utilizing a safe, organic solution that excludes pesticides and synthetic chemicals.

If you’re interested in having a yard filled with color this summer, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to create the best program for your yard.

Your Yard will Bloom All Season with Pollinator Friendly Plants

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This summer and fall you can have continuous blooms when you design your landscape with native plants.The Minnesota Board of Water and Soil Resources has a great publication that explains how native plants are the prefered food sources of pollinators and – with the right plan – provide a yard full of color until the first frost. Here are their recommendations.

Most pollinators are adapted to native plant communities. Which is why native plantings provide the best support for native pollinator species.

  • Continuous bloom throughout the growing season helps ensure pollinators have food when they need it. This allows them to conserve energy by not having to travel long distances when blooms are scarce. Include an assortment of flower colors, sizes, shapes and scents to attract a variety of pollinators.
  • Grouping plants together looks amazing and can help pollinators find and access resources more easily. It also is a way to create a sense of order in your planting
  • Buy Locally Produced Native Plants: this helps protect nearby native plant communities and provides plant species that are sure to be compatible with local insect populations. (see plant lists and Wild Ones resources)

Where you buy your plants is very important. Some nurseries treat their plants with insecticides and fungicides that are harmful to pollinators in your garden.

  • Best Selections: LUNSETH can provide information on specific plant species that provide excellent pollen and nectar resources for native bees, monarchs, and other pollinators.

LUNSETH also recommends the best plants for your landscape based on your site conditions (soil, water, light, space). Our installations are planted with growth in mind. They will look great on installation and fill in over time to look better and better every year.

If you’re interested in having a yard filled with color this summer, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to create the best program for your yard.

Maintaining New Lawns

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Last month we reviewed the process for a sustainable lawn renovation.  This month we provide tips to give your new yard its best chance of thriving. The University of Maryland Extension provides excellent guidance.

Watering

  • Once seed germination has begun do not let the seed dry out
  • A newly seeded lawn requires daily watering during dry periods. 
  • If there’s a stretch of windy and dry days, your grass may require several light waterings a day.
  • Sandy soils dry out quickly, require more watering, and using a light mist is best.
  • Mature grass seedlings require less frequent watering, but they should be watered longer when you do.
  • It’s best to water earlier in the day so the grass does not remain wet overnight.

Mowing

  • Mowing lawns too short or infrequently causes grass to become susceptible to drought injury, weed infestations (especially crabgrass), and foot traffic injury.
  • Mow new turf when it reaches a height one-third higher than your normal mowing height. Usually this is four to six weeks after seeding.
  • Remove only one-third of the grass’s height in each following mowing. Removing too much of the leaf blade at each cutting stresses the new lawn.
  • Soil should be dry enough so that ruts are not formed by the wheels of the lawnmower.
  • Mowing typically needs to be done on a weekly basis during the growing season.

Fertilizing

  • Follow-up applications of fertilizer are made as part of a regular maintenance program.  
  • Organic Lawns by LUNSETH’s organic fertilizer solution provides a proven alternative to chemically-based lawn care — delivering a number of benefits that aren’t possible when treating your lawn synthetically. Being 100% organic means our fertilizers contain a purely balanced food source and do not feature synthetic chemicals that can be detrimental to your health and harsh on your lawn. By hiring us to apply our 100% OMRI-certified organic fertilizer to your lawn, your grass won’t just look great, it’ll be healthy in a way that’s very environmentally advantageous.

Weeds

  • Weeds have been resting all winter and can’t wait to shoot through and start growing.  Thin or bare soil areas combined with sunlight and warm soil temperatures create a perfect opportunity for germination of many of our annual weeds. 
  • These weed seeds aren’t just perennials that lay dormant over the winter. They can be blown in by the wind or be carried in by our bird friends. Early spring is the time to start looking for these intruders and taking steps to reduce their spread. 
  • Read LUNSETH’s Blog Post, “Handle Spring Weeds Now or Pay the Price Later”, to learn about some of the most common weeds we see in Minnesota, along with our tips for getting them under control.

Traffic

  • Young seedlings are easily injured. Newly seeded areas should be restricted from foot traffic for a least a month after the seed has germinated or until the new lawn has been mowed at least a couple of times. 

If you’re interested in having a lush, organic lawn, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH to create the best program for your yard.