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Protecting Your Yard from Deicing Salt

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Every Minnesotan knows that unsettling feeling.  You step on your sidewalk and immediately realize that the best-case scenario is you can slide across the pavement to reach where you’re going – without falling!  That’s when the bags of salt come out. But, while deicing salt reduces the danger of hurting yourself, unfortunately, it increases the danger of winter damage to your lawn.

LUNSETH agrees with the advice provided by the University of Minnesota Extension Service, regarding ways to deal with icy sidewalks without causing irreparable damage to your grass.  Here are some of their suggestions.

Effects of Deicing Salt

Using deicing salts on paved areas increases the salt content in the soil of adjoining turf and gardens. The salt damages roots and causes dehydration in many grasses, causing discoloration or death.

Ways to Avoid Deicing Salt

Sand is a time-tested solution for increasing traction on icy surfaces. The downside is that it doesn’t melt ice and can be a nuisance when it’s tracked into the house. 

Beet brine and alfalfa meal are more recently suggested deicing alternatives. Sugar beet brine can effectively lower the temperature at which salts can be applied and reduce the environmental impact of salts. Alfalfa meal is an effective deicer and provides traction, but it contains nitrogen which can contaminate waterways as part of your yard’s runoff.

Good Shoveling Practices Reduce the Need for Deicing Salt

If you clear the snow often to remove as much snow as possible, it prevents ice buildup. With less snow on your paved areas, when the winter sun appears, it will do an amazing job of melting off any snow and ice that remains. 

If You Need Deicing Salt

There will probably be times when it’s important to make sure your sidewalks and driveway are ice-free, and deicing salt needs to be used.  When this happens, keeping a few tips from the Extension Service in mind will minimize the potential damage deicing salt will cause.

  • Apply the deicing salts correctly and sparingly to critical areas only.
  • Do not apply deicers to snow. Remove the snow first.
  • More is NOT better. A coffee mug of salt (about 12 oz.) is all that is needed for about 1,000 sq. ft., approximately the area of a 20-ft driveway or 10 sidewalk squares.
  • Spread salt evenly leaving about 3 inches between salt grains. Avoid spilling piles of salt.
  • Sweep up any salt grains you see on dry surfaces to prevent it from washing or blowing into plants and waterways. Save it in a container to reapply later in the season.

Planning Ahead – Healthy Turf and Salt-Tolerance Grasses

Making sure your turf is as healthy as possible will help it fight the effects of deicing salts and other winter damage. One product LUNSETH recommends is C20 Soil Builder to stimulate biological activity 157x more than compost. This promotes root health for all types of plants.

Choosing grasses that are heartier is important as well.

  • The UMN Turf Department research found that Fine fescues perform the best in high-salinity environments. They recommend Creeping Red Fescue because it performs the best, but seed mixes containing any fine fescue species will perform well in high-salinity environments. 
  • Tall fescue has intermediate salt tolerance among turfgrass species.
  • Kentucky Bluegrass performs poorly with high salt concentrations.

If deicing salt damages your grass, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH in the spring. We will come up with a plan to repair the damage and help your entire yard thrive because, naturally, we can help!

Organic Methods for Controlling Crabgrass in Your Lawn

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Crabgrass is a common warm-season annual that’s a member of the grass family. The problem is that most people don’t think of it as a grass and want it gone! There are two primary species of crabgrass: the large or hairy crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) and small or smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum). Chances are you have one or both.

Why Does Crabgrass Thrive?

There’s a reason you probably can’t keep up with crabgrass spreading in your yard. It’s one of the most persistent weeds around and a prolific seed spreader. The University of Minnesota Extension Service explains that crabgrass survives harsh conditions through its abundant tillering (creation of shoots other than the main shoot) and seed production. Its structure allows up to 150,000 seeds per plant to be produced in a single season. It’s no wonder it’s hard to keep it under control.

The UMASS Extension Center states that crabgrass seeds germinate best from early spring to late summer. And it continues to grow until midsummer when days become shorter. This is when its growth slows and the plants enter the reproductive stage.

Controlling Crabgrass

Crabgrass is generally controlled with preemergence herbicides that are applied before the seeds germinate. LUNSETH controls crabgrass with an early and heavy application of corn gluten meal, aiming to get it down before the soil temperatures reach 55°F. Unfortunately, we have no organic post-emergent solutions for crabgrass. Synthetic herbicides, such as Quinclorac, can kill it and are best applied during the first tillering stage.

It’s important to remember that controlling crabgrass isn’t a quick fix.  UMASS Extension warns that crabgrass cannot be controlled in one growing season because of the great number of viable seeds that can accumulate in the soil from years of infestation. It takes several years of controlling crabgrass seed production to reduce the viable seed supply.

The good news is that good cultural practices can result in a healthier, denser turf, which in turn increases its overall competitive nature and decreases the severity of crabgrass infestations. Some crabgrass infestations can be significantly reduced with the use of appropriate and well-timed cultural practices.

Conclusion

The experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH help our clients control crabgrass organically by emphasizing soil health, proper maintenance practices, and natural remedies. By integrating these methods into your lawn care routine, you can gradually reduce crabgrass while promoting a vibrant and resilient grassy landscape. Embracing organic solutions not only protects the environment but also contributes to a healthier and more sustainable outdoor space for you and your family to enjoy.

 

Flooded Lawn Repair

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Many people in the Twin Cities area are experiencing lawns flooded by heavy rains or the overflow from streams, rivers and lakes. The University of Minnesota Extension Service warns that during periods of high temperatures and sunlight in the summer, water that ponds on a lawn can cause significant damage or loss even within a few hours.

The damage occurs if the temperature of pooling water on the lawn is 80° F. Turfgrass death occurs in only a few days when this happens. The turf can still die even when water temperatures are lower because the water prevents oxygen from being available for the grass.

Other damage that can occur includes:

  • sediment buildup
  • fungal diseases
  • moss and algae
  • weed infestation

Minor flooding may be an indication that your lawn has drainage issues.  LUNSETH’s landscaping crews’ have assessed and addressed this issue for a number of homeowners. Changing a lawns slopes and valleys can prevent flooding issues in the future.

The Extension Service goes on to warn that, in some instances, you may have to wait for a fix. The grasses we typically grow in Minnesota do not establish well in the middle of the summer due to the high heat and diseases that may occur. For instance, LUNSETH recommends waiting to seed until temperatures cool in the early fall (mid-August through early October).

Sediment buildup is likely following flooding and may result in needing to re-establish a lawn when silt has completely covered it. The process the Extension Service recommends includes:

  • aerate in the fall
  • overseed after aerating
  • sodding can be done throughout the growing season

If you’re worried that your lawn has been damaged from too much rain or flooding, Organic Lawns by LUNSETH has the expertise to assess the problem and help you get your yard thriving again.

Organic Methods for Controlling Clover in Your Lawn

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Clover, particularly white clover (Trifolium repens), is a hardy perennial often found in lawns because it thrives in almost any soil condition and can withstand foot traffic. Some homeowners embrace it because they appreciate its drought resistance and provides food for our pollinators. A field of clover can be beautiful for some, but not for everyone. 

Organic Control Methods
Fortunately, there are several organic methods to control clover in your lawn, promoting a healthy and lush carpet of grass without compromising environmental integrity:

  • Manual Removal: Hand-pulling clover can be effective for smaller patches or isolated areas. Make sure you remove the entire plant, including its roots, to prevent regrowth.
  • Mowing Height: Maintaining taller grass height (around 3 inches) shades the soil, making it harder for clover seeds to germinate and establish.
  • A Healthy Lawn: A vigorous grassy lawn is achieved through proper watering and fertilization.
  • Applying a solution of vinegar (with an acetic acid concentration of at least 10%) directly to clover patches can effectively kill the clover.  Make sure to avoid getting any on your grass because it can damage it too.
  • Multiple applications of chelated iron can suppress some broadleaf weeds, including clover.
  • Patience and Persistence: Organic methods, like most rewarding things in life. Require time and consistent effort. Regular monitoring and maintenance will help prevent clover from taking over again.

Conclusion
The experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH help our clients control clover organically by emphasizing soil health, proper maintenance practices, and natural remedies. We always have a tolerance for 5-10% of weeds within a lawn, as our approach cannot control all of them. Many weeds that we cannot control add good diversity to your lawn and support pollinators. By integrating these methods into your lawn care routine, you can gradually reduce clover while promoting a vibrant and resilient grassy landscape. Embracing organic solutions not only protects the environment but also contributes to a healthier and more sustainable outdoor space for you and your family to enjoy.

When to use Rock or Wood Mulch to Protect Soil

Posted on | by Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Soil requires protection from the elements to prevent erosion and nutrient depletion. Grass or alternative turf solutions are typically the answer for most of the yard.  Turf, however, often isn’t an option in other areas like around trees, plantings, home foundations, and on steep slopes and along wetlands. Rock or wood mulch are the answers for these spots and it’s important to know when to use which one.

Rock Mulch

Rock mulch is available in various sizes and types, suitable for different applications. Rock is a good solution for placing on solid black plastic sheeting near foundations to secure the plastic and divert water away. It’s also effective on top of landscape fabric in high-flow water areas, serving as armor to prevent erosion and protect landscaping like swales or rain garden overflows.

Rock mulch is easier to maintain than wood mulch because it doesn’t decompose. It does need to be cleaned out periodically to remove organic material, prevent unwanted germination, and ensure longevity. Cleaning is easily accomplished with a battery-operated blower or rake.

Wood Mulch

Wood mulch is a better alternative to protect soil and plantings. It also offers a softer aesthetic. Its advantages include suppressing weeds, retaining moisture in the soil, and fostering a cool environment for plant roots. Although it’s effective at holding soil in place to prevent erosion it may wash away more easily than rock mulch, making it less suitable for high-flow water areas.

Wood mulch does require seasonal turning to aid in its breakdown and maintain a fresh appearance. Turning involves simply flipping or stirring it with a rake, fork, or shovel.

Both rock and wood mulch, when used appropriately, create microclimates that encourage healthy soil and plants. This prevents erosion and maintains soil moisture in the areas of your yard where grass doesn’t thrive.