Author: Organic Lawns by Lunseth

Aerate & Overseed Now!

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Aerating and overseeding your lawn now is an important way to give your grass a jumpstart on next year’s growing season.


Aeration

All yards become compacted, and a yard that’s used a lot gets compacted a lot more! That’s one of the reasons why aeration is one of the most important services you can do for your lawn. The University of Minnesota Extension Service says that between late August and early October is the best time to aerate – so now is the time! Fall is an ideal time to aerate because the grass is still actively growing, but there’s less danger of spreading seeds from weeds during the process. 

There are several benefits of aeration. It improves the lawn’s health and relieves soil compaction, resulting in better water drainage and nutrient absorption by the roots.  Strong roots are essential for healthy grass. Also, plugs of soil from the ground are created during aeration. This allows air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil and reach the lawn’s root system.

Compacted soils and soils with poor drainage accumulate thatch faster than well-drained soils. Aerification stimulates the microbial activity involved in decomposing the thatch layer. Aeration plugs sit on the surface of the lawn and crumble apart over time. This top-dresses the grass with soil containing desired microorganisms that will work at decomposing thatch.


Overseeding

Fall is on the best time to overseed. Establishing grass now means it has less competition with weeds, and the cooler nights and sunny days allow for the successful germination of our cool-season grasses. In addition, immature grass does better over the winter than it does dealing with the stresses of summer. So getting it started in the fall optimizes its ability to establish in the spring.

Overseeding after aeration is great timing.  The holes created by the aeration process become great places to catch and protect the seed. And, the lawn is less compacted after aeration, giving the grass a better chance of rooting into the soil.

If you have a question about aeration and overseeding, or would like a quote for having your yard aerated, contact the experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH.

Organic Methods for Controlling Crabgrass in Your Lawn

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Crabgrass is a common warm-season annual that’s a member of the grass family. The problem is that most people don’t think of it as a grass and want it gone! There are two primary species of crabgrass: the large or hairy crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) and small or smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum). Chances are you have one or both.

Why Does Crabgrass Thrive?

There’s a reason you probably can’t keep up with crabgrass spreading in your yard. It’s one of the most persistent weeds around and a prolific seed spreader. The University of Minnesota Extension Service explains that crabgrass survives harsh conditions through its abundant tillering (creation of shoots other than the main shoot) and seed production. Its structure allows up to 150,000 seeds per plant to be produced in a single season. It’s no wonder it’s hard to keep it under control.

The UMASS Extension Center states that crabgrass seeds germinate best from early spring to late summer. And it continues to grow until midsummer when days become shorter. This is when its growth slows and the plants enter the reproductive stage.

Controlling Crabgrass

Crabgrass is generally controlled with preemergence herbicides that are applied before the seeds germinate. LUNSETH controls crabgrass with an early and heavy application of corn gluten meal, aiming to get it down before the soil temperatures reach 55°F. Unfortunately, we have no organic post-emergent solutions for crabgrass. Synthetic herbicides, such as Quinclorac, can kill it and are best applied during the first tillering stage.

It’s important to remember that controlling crabgrass isn’t a quick fix.  UMASS Extension warns that crabgrass cannot be controlled in one growing season because of the great number of viable seeds that can accumulate in the soil from years of infestation. It takes several years of controlling crabgrass seed production to reduce the viable seed supply.

The good news is that good cultural practices can result in a healthier, denser turf, which in turn increases its overall competitive nature and decreases the severity of crabgrass infestations. Some crabgrass infestations can be significantly reduced with the use of appropriate and well-timed cultural practices.

Conclusion

The experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH help our clients control crabgrass organically by emphasizing soil health, proper maintenance practices, and natural remedies. By integrating these methods into your lawn care routine, you can gradually reduce crabgrass while promoting a vibrant and resilient grassy landscape. Embracing organic solutions not only protects the environment but also contributes to a healthier and more sustainable outdoor space for you and your family to enjoy.

 

Flooded Lawn Repair

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Many people in the Twin Cities area are experiencing lawns flooded by heavy rains or the overflow from streams, rivers and lakes. The University of Minnesota Extension Service warns that during periods of high temperatures and sunlight in the summer, water that ponds on a lawn can cause significant damage or loss even within a few hours.

The damage occurs if the temperature of pooling water on the lawn is 80° F. Turfgrass death occurs in only a few days when this happens. The turf can still die even when water temperatures are lower because the water prevents oxygen from being available for the grass.

Other damage that can occur includes:

  • sediment buildup
  • fungal diseases
  • moss and algae
  • weed infestation

Minor flooding may be an indication that your lawn has drainage issues.  LUNSETH’s landscaping crews’ have assessed and addressed this issue for a number of homeowners. Changing a lawns slopes and valleys can prevent flooding issues in the future.

The Extension Service goes on to warn that, in some instances, you may have to wait for a fix. The grasses we typically grow in Minnesota do not establish well in the middle of the summer due to the high heat and diseases that may occur. For instance, LUNSETH recommends waiting to seed until temperatures cool in the early fall (mid-August through early October).

Sediment buildup is likely following flooding and may result in needing to re-establish a lawn when silt has completely covered it. The process the Extension Service recommends includes:

  • aerate in the fall
  • overseed after aerating
  • sodding can be done throughout the growing season

If you’re worried that your lawn has been damaged from too much rain or flooding, Organic Lawns by LUNSETH has the expertise to assess the problem and help you get your yard thriving again.

Organic Methods for Controlling Clover in Your Lawn

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Clover, particularly white clover (Trifolium repens), is a hardy perennial often found in lawns because it thrives in almost any soil condition and can withstand foot traffic. Some homeowners embrace it because they appreciate its drought resistance and provides food for our pollinators. A field of clover can be beautiful for some, but not for everyone. 

Organic Control Methods
Fortunately, there are several organic methods to control clover in your lawn, promoting a healthy and lush carpet of grass without compromising environmental integrity:

  • Manual Removal: Hand-pulling clover can be effective for smaller patches or isolated areas. Make sure you remove the entire plant, including its roots, to prevent regrowth.
  • Mowing Height: Maintaining taller grass height (around 3 inches) shades the soil, making it harder for clover seeds to germinate and establish.
  • A Healthy Lawn: A vigorous grassy lawn is achieved through proper watering and fertilization.
  • Applying a solution of vinegar (with an acetic acid concentration of at least 10%) directly to clover patches can effectively kill the clover.  Make sure to avoid getting any on your grass because it can damage it too.
  • Multiple applications of chelated iron can suppress some broadleaf weeds, including clover.
  • Patience and Persistence: Organic methods, like most rewarding things in life. Require time and consistent effort. Regular monitoring and maintenance will help prevent clover from taking over again.

Conclusion
The experts at Organic Lawns by LUNSETH help our clients control clover organically by emphasizing soil health, proper maintenance practices, and natural remedies. We always have a tolerance for 5-10% of weeds within a lawn, as our approach cannot control all of them. Many weeds that we cannot control add good diversity to your lawn and support pollinators. By integrating these methods into your lawn care routine, you can gradually reduce clover while promoting a vibrant and resilient grassy landscape. Embracing organic solutions not only protects the environment but also contributes to a healthier and more sustainable outdoor space for you and your family to enjoy.

Perennial Care

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Perennials started popping up earlier than normal this spring.  And our steady rains have helped mine thrive and I hope yours have, too.  But we still need to make sure we do what’s needed to help them succeed through all the conditions a Minnesota summer will throw at them.  Here are some great perennial care tips from our friends at the Minnesota State Horticultural Society.

Remove Last Year’s Growth

This is important but the timing depends on your priorities. We hope you’re interested in helping pollinators and other insects. If you are, June is a good time to do this.  If you prune too early, you may disrupt pollinators that have created nests or hibernated in plant stems during the fall. Cutting the stems down too early could destroy eggs or kill the pollinators who are still in hibernation.

Remove Mulch

Mulch helps insulate gardens during the winter. But, once it gets warm, it isn’t as important and can generate mold in wet conditions.  

Watering

The great news is that perennials do not need regular watering. The Horticultural Society says to check and see if the soil is dry 4 to 5 inches down or if the plants seem droopy, then give them a good drink.

Divide

Dividing a perennial that has been established for is a great way to reinvigorate the plant in spring. The Society says you can tell if a perennial needs dividing by looking for a “doughnut” in the plant when it emerges.  If there is a hole in the center of the plant as it comes up in spring, it’s a good time to divide the plant.

Fertilize

The good news for people trying to keep their yards and gardens natural or even organic, is that many perennials don’t need any fertilizer. The Horticulture Society references prairie plants-such as coneflowers, rudbeckia and blazing star-doing best in a lean soil. Others can do well with just a light sprinkling of organic compost.

LUNSETH’s Landscaping team provides advice on how to choose the best perennials for your gardens as part our design and installation services.  Contact LUNSETH for a quote on landscaping opportunities for your yard.

Identifying and Controlling Grub Damage

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Chances are you’ve got some – or a lot of – grub damage this year. We’ve addressed this issue in a number of communities throughout the Twin Cities the past few years. How do you know if you’ve got grubs or not?  Our friends at the University of Minnesota’s Turfgrass Science Department have excellent guidelines in their recent newsletter.

Identifying Grub Damage

There are several indications that white grubs are damaging your lawn. These include:

  • Irregular patches of dead or dying grass that resemble drought stress.
  • Early signs of a white grub infestation are apparent when an irrigation system has been running or we have had regular rainfall and the drought symptoms are still present.
  • Moderate grub damage involves observing dead or dying turf with little to no roots when pulling on the turf.
  • More severe white grub damage is sometimes not caused by the grubs themselves, but by animals like racoons and skunks turning over the turf to feed on the grubs.

Controlling Grubs

What can you do about grubs? The good news is there are very effective organic solutions to get them under control. The Turfgrass newsletter references a biological insecticide, GrubGone (Baccilus thuringiensis galleriae), as the only known biological insecticide to work effectively. It works as a preventative treatment and needs to be applied in advance of a white grub infestation. 

You can find additional information about controlling grubs from our friends at #universityofminnesotaextension  Or, contact LUNSETH for a quote on our grub control services. We’ve helped people all around the Twin Cities get their grub damage under control.

Handle Spring Weeds Now or Pay the Price Later

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Weeds have been resting all winter and can’t wait to shoot through and start growing.  You probably already know that when they do, they start growing – well – like weeds!  This often happens so fast that by the time you try to get rid of them, they’ve already taken over.  Thin or bare soil areas combined with sunlight and warm soil temperatures create a perfect opportunity for germination of many of our annual weeds. 

These weed seeds aren’t just perennials that lay dormant over the winter. They can be blown in by the wind or be carried in by our bird friends. Early spring is the time to start looking for these intruders and taking steps to reduce their spread.  Below are some of the most common weeds we see in Minnesota. Along with our tips for getting them under control.

Crabgrass

Crabgrass is a summer annual that germinates inthe early spring and dies in the fall. The seeds germinate when soil

 temperatures reach about 55°F. Crabgrass can often be found along sidewalks and driveways because the proximity to asphalt and concrete allows the soil to heat up much faster. Areas of the lawn that are south-facing and have full exposure to the sun may also see more crabgrass than other areas. It is a warm-season species that easily out-competes the cool-season grasses during the high-temperature stress periods of midsummer. It is easily recognized by its distinctive seedhead, which looks like protruding fingers, thus its Latin name Digitaria (digits, or fingers). The seedhead branches from multiple locations on the seed stalk. This grass has a rolled vernation, and smooth crabgrass can be purple near the base. 

Crabgrass is generally controlled with preemergence herbicides that are applied before the seeds germinate. Organically, you can control crabgrass with an early and heavy application of corn gluten meal, aiming to get it down before the soil temperatures reach 55°F (3-years to achieve the best suppression).  There is no organic post-emergent control for crabgrass, but synthetic herbicides containing Quinclorac can kill it.


Prostrate Knotweed  

Prostrate knotweed looks a little like prostrate spurge, but it is easy to distinguish the two. The knotweed has symmetrical leaves that are arranged in an alternating pattern along the length of its runner. It also lacks the milky sap that is typical of the spurge. The knotweed germinates very early in the spring and can sometimes be found peeking through as the snow melts. It was identified at its earliest this year at the Turfgrass Research Center, in February! It looks a little like grass when it first emerges, and is sometimes mistaken for emerging crabgrass. The knotweed will usually show up six to eight weeks or even more, before crabgrass.

Prostrate knotweed can be controlled with pre-emergent weed control, but if it is applied early enough to control this species, it will lose its effectiveness before the later germinating species, such as goosegrass. Multiple applications of a synthetic post-emergent herbicide can have little effect. Knotweed is a sign of soil compaction, and it is usually found in compacted areas along sidewalks or in other heavily trafficked areas. Relieving the compaction through aeration and following other sound management techniques to produce a healthy lawn are generally the best way to handle knotweed.


Oxalis

Yellow woodsorrel (better known as oxalis and shamrock), is an annual or a weak perennial in northern regions of the United States. It is easily recognized by its three-part leaf with distinct heart-shaped leaflets and its yellow flowers with five petals. It germinates in midsummer and often becomes a problem in August.

This species can be controlled with pre-emergent herbicides, but its late germination makes it difficult to control in this manner. Selective post-emergent herbicides can control it, but these applications need to be applied carefully to prevent damage to desirable plants during the warmer part of the summer. Three to four applications of chelated iron would be needed to control it. This weed is easy to hand pull, as it does not resprout from roots left behind. Proper irrigation, fertilization, and other sound management steps that keep the lawn healthy provide the best means of preventing this weed from becoming a problem.


Black Medic

Black medic is considered an annual clover, even though it is not part of the clover

genus. It has teardrop-shaped leaves clustered in groups of three, similar to clover. The flowers are small, round, and yellow. Black medic is a species that is an indication that the lawn grasses are not as competitive as they could be with proper management. It often shows up on hillsides, where water does not readily penetrate the soil, or in compacted areas.

The adoption of sound lawn management techniques, along with pre-emergent or post-emergent weed control, will provide satisfactory control of this species. Hand weeding this weed is not difficult, since it grows from a central location. One application of chelated iron will kill this weed.


Prostrate Spurge

Prostrate spurge, as its name would indicate, grows in a prostrate manner along the surface of the ground. It has leaves that are paired opposite one another along the length of its runner. The individual leaves are asymmetrical, meaning that they are not the same on both sides of the midrib. Some varieties will have a purple/red spot on the middle of the leaf. If the stem is broken, a drop of milky sap will form at the end of the broken stem. This sap can irritate the skin, so wear gloves when hand pulling this weed. Spurge and knotweed can be mistaken for each other, but knotweed does not produce a milky sap when the stem is broken and its leaves grow in an alternating pattern. Spurge generally germinates later than goosegrass, which germinates later than crabgrass.

These three species are a difficult combination to control with pre-emergent herbicides. If the herbicide is targeting crabgrass germination, it will have lost its effectiveness before the spurge germinates. Spurge can be controlled with a number of post-emergent herbicides, such as 2,4-D and MCPP, but it is risky to use these chemicals in midseason because of damage to trees and shrubs. Spurge generally germinates into open areas in the lawn, and the best way to control it is with proper cultural techniques that prevent it from becoming established.

When to use Rock or Wood Mulch to Protect Soil

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Soil requires protection from the elements to prevent erosion and nutrient depletion. Grass or alternative turf solutions are typically the answer for most of the yard.  Turf, however, often isn’t an option in other areas like around trees, plantings, home foundations, and on steep slopes and along wetlands. Rock or wood mulch are the answers for these spots and it’s important to know when to use which one.

Rock Mulch

Rock mulch is available in various sizes and types, suitable for different applications. Rock is a good solution for placing on solid black plastic sheeting near foundations to secure the plastic and divert water away. It’s also effective on top of landscape fabric in high-flow water areas, serving as armor to prevent erosion and protect landscaping like swales or rain garden overflows.

Rock mulch is easier to maintain than wood mulch because it doesn’t decompose. It does need to be cleaned out periodically to remove organic material, prevent unwanted germination, and ensure longevity. Cleaning is easily accomplished with a battery-operated blower or rake.

Wood Mulch

Wood mulch is a better alternative to protect soil and plantings. It also offers a softer aesthetic. Its advantages include suppressing weeds, retaining moisture in the soil, and fostering a cool environment for plant roots. Although it’s effective at holding soil in place to prevent erosion it may wash away more easily than rock mulch, making it less suitable for high-flow water areas.

Wood mulch does require seasonal turning to aid in its breakdown and maintain a fresh appearance. Turning involves simply flipping or stirring it with a rake, fork, or shovel.

Both rock and wood mulch, when used appropriately, create microclimates that encourage healthy soil and plants. This prevents erosion and maintains soil moisture in the areas of your yard where grass doesn’t thrive.

Winter Love for Untidy Lawns & Gardens

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A yard without leaves and a garden without dead stalks sticking up all winter long brings a sense of satisfaction. But at Organic Bob we promote a love of untidy lawns and gardens. These organic materials serve to nurture the soil and also provide shelter for pollinators.

Our friends at the Pollinator Friendly Alliance explain that most pollinators stay over winter, looking for shelter in both plants and the ground. “During cold months, dead plant stems, old bark, cane, leaves, and undisturbed soil are the secret winter homes of pollinators. Leaving piles of leaves, compost or wood help all manner of creatures including salamanders, beneficial insects, and pollinators. Many solitary bees like mason bees burrow under tree bark or wood piles. Some have gorged like bears to make it through the winter; others wait in suspended animation as larvae, pupae, or eggs.

“Something you should be aware of as you begin to tidy up your garden for winter – especially burning or removing the plant stems, you may be destroying hibernating bees or bee nurseries. So, it’s important to leave plants standing until late spring when temperatures rise and nectar and pollen is available.”

If you have a question about keeping a pollinator friendly yard, contact the experts.

Snow-covered trees and shrubs.

How to Protect Plants in the Winter

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Freezing temperatures, heavy snowfall, and strong winds are a fact of life during the winter. But this drastic change in climate conditions can also spell trouble for outdoor plants.

Though you can transport many container plants indoors, landscaping plants like trees or shrubs aren’t meant to be household plants. Therefore, the question of how to protect your outdoor landscape comes into play.

How Does Winter Damage Outdoor Plants?

Some winters can be mild, but they often consist of ice, snow, and windchill, especially in the Midwest. Even the sunlight during the wintertime can cause severe damage to landscape plants, such as turning evergreens brown due to dehydration and killing branches and root systems.

Shrubs, on the other hand, can suffer from dieback, which kills shoots, branches, twigs, or root systems, starting from the tips of branches and spreading downwards. And let’s remember that shoveling piles of snow onto your grass, which likely contains traces of deicing salt, can be extremely harmful to your landscape area.

So, what are your options?

Protecting trees with thin bark or those recently planted is a good starting point, as these are the most vulnerable to damage during the winter.

Therefore, covering your trees with plastic tubes or tree wraps can help reflect sunlight and block winds. Furthermore, tree wraps can protect your trees from roaming wildlife, especially as food sources become scarce during the winter.  

Just remember to remove the wraps after the last frost of the year.

Should You Cover Plants in Winter?

Because we live in an area where temperatures drop below freezing, it’s essential to protect your plants from frost damage. Therefore, you may consider covering your plants, such as shrubs, using burlap to allow moisture to come in but also help keep the harsh winter elements out. 

What Do You Cover Plants With in Cold Weather?

In addition to burlap, there are several different materials you can use to cover outdoor plants during winter. You’ll need to choose one based on what type of plant you have and its sun and shade tolerance.

Popular covering materials include mulch, garden blankets, towels, sheets, cardboard boxes and other common household materials.

Mulching, for example, is one of the easiest ways to keep your plants safe during extreme weather. You can use straw, leaves, pine needles, hay, wood chips, or any other organic material that will help insulate your plants from the ground.

When Should You Cover Your Plants?

Covering plants is typically used to protect plants from frost. You can cover your plants before dusk to help trap warmer air inside and remove coverings during the daytime so the plants can get enough sunlight. 

Before covering your plants, remember to remove any snow accumulation from the day. You’ll want to do so carefully as not to damage any branches.

Protect Your Landscape This Winter

Every Minnesotan homeowner knows that lawns never take a holiday, not even during winter. So check out this helpful article for more tips on caring for your lawn this season.

And remember that winter is the perfect time to start planning your organic lawn goals for spring. To ensure you get in the books before the ground thaws, contact Organic Lawns by Lunseth today!

We’ll help you design and create an organic landscape you can be proud of in the New Year.